Second city putting itself first

ALEPPO, SYRIA // For centuries Damascus and Aleppo have been rival cities, competing for the limelight, each regarding the other as something of an impetuous upstart. Both claim to be the more historically important, the most cultured, the most sophisticated, the most economically powerful.

In recent years, the Syrian capital has clearly overshadowed its northern competitor. As the national administrative centre, where decisions are made, Damascus has simply been more relevant. And as the country has opened up economically, the capital has been the focus for the private banks and investment; the Syrian stock exchange that began trading last month is in Damascus, 375km south of Aleppo.

While this situation is unlikely to change, the severe economic difficulties facing Syria have prompted the authorities to place greater emphasis on tourism. And as that happens, Aleppo is likely to become increasingly important.

“The government and ministry of tourism are paying attention to the development here,” said Fouad Hilal, president of the Aleppo Travel Agents Association. “Aleppo has excellent tourist sites, especially areas of interest for Christians, and it is still a place where you can stay cheaply if you want. If you have $1,000 (Dh3,673) a night to spend you can, or if you have $6 a night to spend, you can do that too.

“I’d say the level of service and quality given to tourists is acceptable, it’s something I’d like to see improve and it will, the investment is coming.”

A series of large four- and five-star hotel complexes are under construction that, when completed, will double the number of guest beds in the city from its current level of 2,600. Work is already underway to restore Aleppo citadel and other parts of the city centre, in an effort to make it more accessible and marketable.

“Tourism is increasing and our long term strategy is that if the hotels are there, they will be full,” Mr Hilal said. “Annual occupancy rates are high, and most of the tourists are staying in the more expensive sort of hotels.”

As an indicator of rising demand, in 1994 there were 1,161 recorded visitors to the citadel of Saint Simeon, 60km north-west of Aleppo, one of the area’s key historical sites. In 2004 there were 230,000 visitors.

Another major attraction – and potential money supplier for Syria – is the village of Brad, 30km from Aleppo. It is a sacred sight for Maronite Christians, and Bashar Assad, the Syrian president, recently pledged local land to the community, which plans to build a new shrine. Thousands of pilgrims from the eight million-strong Maronite community across the world are expected to visit each year.

While it is renowned as a conservative Islamic city, Aleppo has a sizeable population of Christians, and with 12 different sects, it boasts the most diverse Christian community in the Middle East. Beirut has a larger number of Christians but cannot match the mosaic found in Syria’s second largest city: six Catholic sects, three Orthodox, two Protestant and one Nestorian.

Mohammed Kujjah, who administered Aleppo’s year as Islamic capital of culture in 2006, said the city would benefit from a renewed influx of tourists, shrugging off suggestions it might do damage to the city’s character.

“Aleppo has always been closely connected to the wider world,” he said. “The first consulate opened in Damascus in 1833 by which time there had been one in Aleppo for 700 years. When Damascus was just a point on the pilgrim route, Aleppo was an important trading centre. In that way, Aleppo has always been a place for tourism and visitors.”

There are, however, obstacles to be overcome before anything approaching a revival can be achieved. Some city industry leaders are frustrated with the slow pace of change; others complain that the city is still not considered a high priority by the authorities in Damascus.

“In the national five-year spending plans Aleppo has only been allocated 10 per cent of the national tourism budget,” one said on condition of anonymity. “Given the importance and potential of the city that’s just not enough.”

“We do need more resources,” Mr Kujjah said. “We need more investment. But the future looks good. We have the sites, we have hospitable people, and tourism is going to be important for Syria’s economy.”

Beyond the matter of money, constant regional instability also hangs as a heavy cloud over hopes for Aleppo’s revival. During the recent Gaza war, 20 per cent of tourist bookings were lost, with travellers worried that the fighting could spread.

“For tourism to really become big we will need a peace in the Middle East,” said Mf Hilal, the travel agent. “Whenever there are problems, tourists cancel their bookings.”