The treasures of the Nile

TOURISTS have flooded the Nile, Pyramids and Sphinx for almost a century, but Egypt's south is also home to some rare treasures.

One such jewel, Abu Simbel, lies 40km north of the Sudanese border.

It was a Belgian sailor called Burkhart who noticed a couple of heads sticking out of the ground as he cruised the Nile in 1813.

Tonnes of sand were cleared to reveal two temples commissioned by the legendary pharaoh Ramesses II.

Ramesses II didn't just busy himself with building monuments.

He also married about 50 queens and fathered about 200 children.

At Abu Simbel he had a 30m high temple cut into one mountain for himself and another cut next door for his favourite wife Nefertari.

The four 20m high sculptures of Ramesses II at the front of his temple are impressive enough, but inside the temple, 62m deep, is where the true genius of the ancient Egyptians is on display.

There, sitting in the darkness against the back wall, are four sculptures of Ramesses II and three gods.

On every February 21 since the 1300s BC the sculpture of Ramesses II was illuminated by the sun's rays to mark his birthday.

However, this changed in 1963.

The construction of the Aswan Dam 300km downstream was set to drown both temples when the Egyptians decided to move them.

With some overseas help they cut the temples into 1100 blocks weighing between seven and 20 tonnes and moved them to higher ground.

They were able to position the pharaoh's temple so the sun still shines on his sculpture, but on February 22 - a day late.

The temples weren't the only ones displaced by the great dam.

Some 250,000 Nubian people were offered new homes in northern Sudan and southern Egypt before the Nile began to rise, but one tribe was high enough to remain.

The Nubians of Seheil Island, near Aswan, open their homes to those interested in sampling their cuisine.

After their vivacious children have showed off their mobile phones and demanded you take a photo of them, preferably with a digital camera, you will sit down to a meal similar to an Aussie barbecue.

No doubt the Nubians have traditional names for the dishes, but in our language they translate to potato bake, rissoles, rice, KFC-style chicken, vegies and bread.

Walking through their streets at night is an experience in itself.

Some of the children play soccer under street lights while others huddle around computers surfing the net in a shed that acts as an internet cafe.

Their shops and stalls are left open and unattended at the close of business because the Nubians don't steal.

Their homes are just as open.

Outside each house you'll find a large ceramic pot called a zer which stores water.

Anyone walking by is welcome to a cup and given the summers the south experiences it's a sensible idea.

All of Egypt swelters during our winter, but Abu Simbel reaches 60C once or twice a year while Aswan reaches the mid-50s.

November to February are magical throughout Egypt with cold mornings (5-10C) and warm days (20-30C).

Crime is low despite 30 per cent unemployment.

You're more likely to be hustled or ripped off than robbed.

Beware men offering donkey or camel rides and photo opportunities.

It might cost five Egyptian pounds to sit on the donkey, but it will be 20 to get off.

Not that that is an expensive swindle.

One Aussie dollar buys at least four Egyptian pounds, which should encourage travellers to upgrade.

Four- and five-star accommodation in Egypt is the equivalent of three- or four-star here.

There are horror stories of two- and three-star hotels and hostels with putrid bathrooms and dirty sheets.

Food is cheap and nutritious.

The Egyptian people are good-humoured and extremely tourist savvy.

Quite a few will even pick an Aussie accent from the thousands of English, New Zealand and American tourists who visit.

* The writer travelled at their own expense.